“Designing the Look” with Creative Director Abi-RoseTop Model
Designing the make up for London Fashion Week is a fun but complex task! There are so many new trends to bare in mind and to stay up to date with, and it’s important to make the designs relevant, original and interesting. As well as this, it is important to remember that the focus is on the garments themselves, so the looks really have to compliment the designs and be striking on the catwalk.
My inspiration for London Fashion Week comes from a variety of current fashion week shows and the trends for that season. For the SS18 Fashion International shows I went for a classic, fresh faced, ‘no makeup makeup’ that makes an appearance in so many fashion week shows at the moment. I love this trend, as it celebrates everyone’s natural beauty and the focus is on enhancing features. I especially love eyebrows and how they frame a face, so this was my chance to focus on them.
For a second makeup look, I decided to take inspiration from the strong broken liner as seen above on Gigi Hadid. Many of the designs were glamorous and strong, so they needed a strong look to compliment them. This was probably the most technically challenging look if you ask my team, but it definitely made an impact on the runway!
Finally, for the big multi-designer evening show at Fashion International, I designed a look inspired by Giorgio Armani’s blue-black smokey eye as seen above. I wanted a strong, sculpted look that would compliment all the designers’ garments featured in this show. I was so pleased with the outcome as it looked so striking. We went for a very strong smokey eye with hints of blue coming through, contoured cheekbones and very simple nude lips; it was all about the eyes!
For Top Model, it’s a slightly different story as, after all, it’s a model competition. My job is to design looks that would flatter and suit every skin tone and facial feature, so as to give everyone an equal platform and to enhance their natural beauty. I also have to bare in mind the amount of models we have, the size of my makeup team and the size of the hair team. This is a fast paced show with many walks and changes, makeup having to be changed and adapted quickly but flawlessly on a lot of models.
Look one is generally natural, as I want to showcase the models’ natural beauty and features. It is important that we start with the most natural look and built up, as it’s much easier to add makeup rather than trying to take it off and change it to something more minimal without added stress and smudging. I prefer minimal makeup, a natural latte finish, with simply lip balm on the lips, a soft natural blush, and eyebrows brushed up as a soft focus point.
Look two is focused on defining the eyes and enhancing the features more. Building on look one, we added smudgy brown definition with black kohl liner for the 2017 shows, and introduced some pink shades to the lips.
Building on look two, we finally added some highlighter and contouring to the cheekbones for look three. We went for a bright red tone for the lips to introduce a bit of glamour and colour. The red wasn’t set in stone, and I advised my makeup artists to pick a tone that would complement the skin colour of the model. Some people suit bluer reds, some people suit warmer orange reds – this is a competition after all, so we try and give everyone a slightly more individual approach.